Besançon: A French city where time is treasured
In the heart of eastern France, a city of remarkable beauty and historical significance can be found. Encircled by the meandering Doubs River and guarded by an imposing citadel, this hidden gem has captivated visitors for centuries. Welcome to Besançon, a place where Roman ruins stand alongside Renaissance palaces, and where the legacy of watchmaking ticks away in harmony with modern innovation.
A Natural Fortress
The cityscape of Besançon is dominated by its natural topography. The old town is cradled within a horseshoe bend of the Doubs River, creating a natural moat that has been used for defense since ancient times. This unique geography was recognized by Julius Caesar himself, who described the area as "practically enclosed by the river on all sides."
Atop the hill overlooking the city, the Citadel of Besançon stands as a testament to military engineering. Designed by the renowned Vauban in the 17th century, this UNESCO World Heritage site offers breathtaking views of the surrounding landscape. Visitors are often surprised to find that the citadel houses not only historical exhibitions but also a zoo and several museums, making it a multifaceted attraction.
A Walk Through Time
As one descends from the citadel into the old town, centuries of history unfold before their eyes. Roman ruins, including the well-preserved Porte Noire triumphal arch, serve as a reminder of the city's ancient origins. The streets are lined with elegant Renaissance mansions, their façades adorned with intricate stonework and wrought-iron balconies.
The Palais Granvelle, a 16th-century mansion turned museum, stands as a prime example of Renaissance architecture in Besançon. Its courtyard often echoes with the sounds of classical music concerts, a nod to the city's rich cultural heritage.
The Capital of Time
Besançon's identity is inextricably linked to the art of timekeeping. Known as the "Capital of French Watchmaking," the city's horological tradition dates back to the 18th century. This legacy is celebrated at the Museum of Time, housed in the stunning Palais Granvelle. Here, visitors can marvel at a collection of timepieces that span centuries, from ancient sundials to cutting-edge atomic clocks.
The precision and craftsmanship that defined Besançon's watchmaking industry have left an indelible mark on the city's character. Today, this spirit of innovation continues in the form of high-tech industries and research centers, particularly in the fields of microtechnology and biomedical sciences.
A City of Culture and Learning
Besançon's intellectual heritage is as rich as its industrial one. The city is home to one of France's oldest universities, founded in 1423. The presence of thousands of students gives the city a youthful energy, particularly evident in the vibrant Battant district, where cafes and bars buzz with conversation late into the night.
The influence of Victor Hugo, Besançon's most famous son, can be felt throughout the city. The house where he was born has been transformed into a museum, offering insights into the life and work of this literary giant.
Green Spaces and Natural Beauty
Despite its urban character, Besançon is a city that embraces nature. The Parc Micaud, with its elegant promenade along the Doubs River, provides a tranquil escape from city life. For those seeking more adventure, the surrounding Jura Mountains offer opportunities for hiking, cycling, and winter sports.
A Gastronomic Journey
The culinary traditions of Besançon reflect its position at the crossroads of different regions. Comté cheese, produced in the nearby mountains, features prominently in local dishes. The city's markets, particularly the covered market of Beaux-Arts, showcase the bounty of the Franche-Comté region, from smoked Morteau sausages to the famous absinthe liqueur.
A City for All Seasons
Each season brings a new face to Besançon. Spring sees the city's parks burst into bloom, while summer invites outdoor concerts and festivals. Autumn paints the surrounding forests in vibrant hues, and winter transforms the citadel into a snow-capped fortress.
As the sun sets over the Doubs River, casting a golden glow on the city's ancient stones, one can't help but feel the weight of history and the promise of the future that coexist in Besançon. This captivating city, with its blend of natural beauty, historical significance, and forward-thinking spirit, continues to enchant visitors from around the world.
For those seeking to explore more of France's hidden treasures, a visit to Angers in the Loire Valley offers another glimpse into the country's rich tapestry of history and culture.
When to visit Besancon
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Michelin Restaurants in Besancon
Show allLe Sauvage
At the foot of the Vauban Citadel, this smart hotel occupies the former convent of the Poor Clares. The restaurant provides a cosy setting, with old parquet floors and tablecloths, and – a major asset – its terrace overlooking the park! Chef Hugo Mathieu (trained in Lyon's top restaurants) is no novice, judging by his polished dishes: glazed pea velouté, cod loin fillet cooked at 50C, crispy pistachio tartlet.
Besançon - FRANCE
Le Parc
In the heart of the Parc Micaud, on the banks of the River Doubs, this glass, concrete and steel pavilion is the Modernist work of Besançon architect Michel Demenge. The chic, contemporary interior, with its open-plan kitchen, also offers a view of the river. Dishes are in a contemporary vein, the menu under the supervision of the chef of nearby Château de Germigney.
Besançon - FRANCE
Le Saint-Pierre
Savour fine dining with a predominance of fish dishes and quality produce in an elegant setting of open stonework and modern touches. The St - Pierre makes for an idyllic experience!
Besançon - FRANCE
Le Manège
At the foot of the citadel, this former military riding arena specialises in delicate, flavoursome fare rich in regional twists (such as a mushroom crust cooked in vin jaune or their amazing sliced black pudding). The self-taught chef is a stickler for perfection – as the first and last bite will confirm.
Besançon - FRANCE
Le Saint Cerf
"This contemporary bistro with a pleasant interior proposes tasty food rife with various influences, including Asian touches, skilfully handled from start to finish, without ostentation. Add to that a distinct tendency towards the ""natural"" (seasonality, ingredients) and a handful of vegetarian dishes and you get an ambassador of the Besançon's revival. "
Besançon - FRANCE
Loiseau du Temps
Set in a former 18C wheat barn, this handsome dining room, depicted by vaults and contemporary details, is home to the most recent addition to the Loiseau Group. The menu focuses on produce and recipes from Bourgogne-Franche-Comté: gravlax of Jura trout, snails in parsley, poultry reared by Gaston Gérard… Each dish is generously crafted and beautifully presented. Enticing dessert trolley and a fine selection of wines, particularly by the glass.
Besançon - FRANCE
Épicéa
In a narrow street near the Doubs, this couple, who earned their stripes in prestigious establishments, work in tandem in the open kitchen, occasionally venturing out to serve diners. Their single set menu, based on carefully selected seasonal produce and enhanced by wild-picked ingredients, is akin to a natural history lesson: carrot / marjoram / plantain / burnet / bay leaf; black pork / pumpkin / poultry jus / spring onion oil; beetroot / raspberry / coriander / iced nougat.
Besançon - FRANCE
Best Restaurants in Besancon
Show allRestaurant GRILL HOUSE
Dine in • Takeaway • Lunch • Dinner
Besançon - FRANCE
Restaurant Épicéa
Dine in • Lunch • Dinner
Besançon - FRANCE
La cave au resto
Dine in • Takeaway • Lunch • Dinner
Avanne-Aveney - FRANCE
CUISINE MIXTE
Dine in • Takeaway • Delivery • Lunch • Dinner • Vegetarian Friendly • Wheelchair-accessible entrance
Besançon - FRANCE
Restaurant Saint Pierre
Dine in • Lunch • Dinner
Besançon - FRANCE
Restaurant Dar les bains
Dine in • Takeaway • Lunch • Dinner
Besançon - FRANCE
Yuki
Dine in • Takeaway • Delivery • Lunch • Dinner • Vegetarian Friendly
Besançon - FRANCE
Église de la Madeleine
Dine in • Takeaway • Delivery • Dinner • Vegetarian Friendly • Wheelchair-accessible entrance
Besançon - FRANCE
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